How to replace a rear delta link.
The rear suspension of all front-wheel drive S70 and V70 models is Volvo’s patented Delta link system with coil springs and separate shock absorbers.
The rear-wheel drive S90 and V90 models, both sedans and wagons, have Volvo’s Multilink-link rear suspension with a single, transversely mounted, composite
leaf spring. The V70 AWD family uses a modified S90/V90 rear drive unite. The major modification is the use of coil springs in place of the mono-leaf
composite spring.
MVS Forum Member Ozark Lee writes:
An example of a bad rear delta endlink.
OEM Volvo links are, at the best price I have found, US $200 each while the aftermarket versions run roughly half of that. Between eEuroparts.com and FCP Groton I ordered the aftermarket versions and new bolts which we shall see if that was a mistake or not. The Haynes manual and Vadis procedures are quite insistent that the bolts be replaced when doing this procedure so I also ordered new bolts for everything associated with the endlink itself.
Disassembly is quite easy. Do the block the wheels, jackstands, etc. Just to get good access I took off the tire and then I first removed the nut (18mm socket) that holds the end link into the “delta arm”. Vadis says to use a “copper mallet or equivalent” to tap out the bolt. I’ve never seen a copper 5 lb. sledge hammer but I used a 5 lb. steel sledge hammer, leaving the nut on, to release the serrated head bolt from the top of the arm. A tip here is to jam a 2 X 4 above the delta link and the bottom of the car. In my case most of the hammer “wham” was diminished by the vertical travel in the suspension if I didn’t jam it.
MVS Forum Member jakub72 adds:
Just coming off the rear end suspension fix high from Sunday. Started at 2 finshed by 11…….
The best way to deal with the delta links is heat. After installing them very carefully and slowly with gentle taps from both top and bottom, to walk them in; I realized why nothing else worked. It is a very tight fit and I bet pulling them out would require the same amount of alignment. I did try the puller method by welding a bracket around the arm and nut welded to a rod, but all it did was bend a #10 threaded rod and break welds. I finally got pis#ed and cut it off. I then drilled a bunch of holes in the plastic and turned on the heat. The plastic evetually does melt and I then picked the plastic out with screwdrivers and needlenose pliers. The other side I drilled one hole and more heat…..presto!!! When assembling I used lots of love and plenty of lube……tire shine worked good. I could do the next one in 3-4 hours for the entire suspension.
Over all worth the work and hassle…no clunking, no drifting and finally the car does not pull to the left under hard braking from the rear.
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